Where to Eat in Granada 2020: Your Ultimate Foodie Guide
Quick note: I try to keep my foodie guides as up to date as possible, but the situation in Spain is changing pretty quickly at the moment due to the COVID-19 pandemic. So, for now, double-check that my suggestions for where to eat in Granada are still open and accepting guests! Thanks for reading. — David (the Everyday Food Blogger).
Never ask a Spaniard where tapas come from.
First, they’ll give you a withering stare. It’s a kind of stare that screams “why would you ask something so stupid?”. Second (if they haven’t left the room in indignation), they’ll tell you that “tapas come from here“.
“Here” could be anywhere, depending on where the person is from. Most of Spain claims the title of the birthplace of tapas, though almost everyone will admit, under pressure, that it’s most likely that they come from the South, in sunny Andalusia.
Even then, Granada and Seville still fight over which Andalusian city first came up with the idea of tapas. We’ll probably never know where it really comes from, especially as tapas look different in each place!
While Seville’s tapas are small share plates ordered from a menu, Granada gives you tapas for free. Yep: free food! That’s just one of the reasons Granada is a great place to visit for foodies.
So now you’re convinced to go to Granada, where should you eat? Although I live in Seville, I love going to Granada whenever I can. The entire city feels like something out of a fairy tale, from the dusky Alhambra palace to it’s fantastic, bubbling tapas bar scene.
Here are my favourite places to eat whenever I head to the old Moorish capital.
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Your Ultimate Foodie Guide to Where to Eat in Granada
It’s not just the free food that brings foodies to Granada. And it’s not even for the Alhambra, the most visited landmark in Spain! It’s that Granada is just, well… different from the rest of the country.
For almost 800 years until 1492, Granada was the capital of Moorish Spain. This kingdom descended from the Arabic Empire that invaded Spain centuries earlier, giving the city a unique feel and culture. Get lost in the city’s old town, the Albaicín, and you might start to think you’re in Morocco!
The food, too, has a distinctly Arabic flair. You’ll come across more dishes with Arabic spices, brik pastry, almonds, and dates than anywhere else in Spain!
Aside from the classic tapas bars, Granada also offers fine-dining restaurants, classic fry-shops, and my favourite wine bar in Spain. Let’s dive in!
Where to Eat Breakfast in Granada
Breakfast in Spain might not be what you expect.
There are no bacon or eggs here, and don’t even think about ordering pancakes! Instead, Spaniards breakfast simply: just a classic tostada (toast with olive oil, tomato, and maybe a little jamón ibérico), or churros on a good day.
It’s not the most important meal of the day, but that doesn’t mean it’s not delicious! Here are my favourite spots for starting the day in Granada:
- La Flauta (Calle Laurel Alta, 2). A tiny bar with classic brekky toasts, and plenty of locals sipping their breakfast beer.
- Café 4 Gatos (Placeta Cruz Verde, 6). Granada’s biggest tostada (get the media, unless you come very hungry).
- LaSeda (Plaza de Bib-Rambla, 6). A modern eatery serving breakfast classics in the Bib-Rambla neighbourhood of Granada.
- Churreria Torres Bermejas (Plaza Nueva, 6). Good churros in the heart of the city!
Best Coffee in Granada
I have a love-hate relationship with Spanish coffee. All too often, it’s terrible. In the old-school Spanish cafes, locals love to order coffee that’s gone through the torture of torrefacto.
This process involved coating the beans in sugar before they roast, which burns the sugar. The result is a charry, bitter, and black coffee devoid of any positive flavours.
So in general, I don’t ask for coffee with my breakfast. (Go for an orange juice, it’s always freshly squeezed and delicious!). I prefer to wait and visit a craft coffee house to get my caffeine fix, and if you’re the same, here’s my adivce:
- La Finca Coffee (Calle Colegio Catalino, 3). Cafe and roastery in the heart of the city.
- Dulcimena Coffee & Go (Calle Molinos, 19). Craft coffee in the shadow of the Alhambra.
- Noat Coffee (Calle Santa Escolástica, 7). You don’t even need to leave the Albaicin to get a proper coffee!
Tapas in Granada: Where to Eat and What
Granada’s tapas are small, saucer-sized plates of food that come with every drink you order, meaning you can get a light dinner with drinks for well under 10 euros a person.
So don’t be alarmed when the waiter puts a plate of food down on your table with your beer or glass of wine! It’s not a con, and you’re not going to pay for it. You also don’t get to choose what you get; it’s just whatever is on offer right then and there.
You can still get bigger share-plates of food, called raciones, and half-sized plates called medias (though they won’t be free!).
Classic Tapas: Famous Foods from Granada
Every Spanish city has a few iconic dishes, and Granada is no exception. While you can still get Andalusian classics like stewed pork cheeks, bull tail, and croquetas, why not give these local options a try as well:
- Tortilla de Sacramonte: Not for the faint hearted! This version of tortilla is from the Sacramonte, Roma neighbourhood of Granada. It’s packed with ingredients a lot of people would throw away, reflecting the poor history of the barrio. Think of a normal Spanish omelette, and then add lamb and calf brains (or testicles), nuts (not testicles), peas, and ham.
- Remojón Granaíno: A classic summer salad of salted cod, orange, olives, and spring onion. It’s similar to ensalada malagueña, a dish featured in my guide to where to eat in Malaga.
- Queso Montefrieño: This is a goat cheese from the nearby village of Montefrieño, regarded as one of the best cheeses in Spain!
- Olla de San Anton: To celebrate St. Anthony’s Day in February, local bars will serve this special seasonal stew of rice, pork, spices, and beans. Get it while it lasts!
- Pescado Frito: While Granada isn’t on the coast, all of Andalusia is famous for its fried fish. Seek out a good freiduría to try deliciously fresh seafood fried to golden, crispy perfection.
Best Tapas Bars in Granada
Now that you know what you want to eat, where should you go to eat them? You’ll be spoilt for choice in Granada, and there are more tapas bars than you would ever think possible for such a small city.
Luckily, with so many free tapas on offer, the price of trying one out is pretty low. But if you want to cut out the chaff and get straight to the best tapas bars in Granada, here are some of my favourites!
- Los Diamantes (Calle Navas, 26). THE local favourite for fried fish. Get in early or there won’t be any empty tables in sight.
- Bar Sevilla (Calle Oficios 12). Right near the Cathedral, this tapas bar has been open since 1930 and counts Federico García Lorca among its more famous customers! The food is as old-school as the decor, but definitely tasty.
- Ávila Tapas (Calle Verónica de la Virgen, 16). Pork is king here. Try the chef’s specialty, baked ham!
- Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Almireceros, 1). Classic tapas bar with generous free tapas coming with every drink.
- Los Manueles (Calle Reyes Católicos, 61). Famous for their mammoth-sized croquetas!
- El Tabernaculo (Calle Navas, 27). One of Granada’s “Holy Bars”, a common sight across Andalusia. These are taverns dedicated to local Catholic churches, usually owned and run by prominent members of the church, decorated with images of parades, the Virgin Mary, and celebrations.
Top Fine Dining Restaurants in Granada
If you’re looking to get away from rustic tapas bars and try somewhere a little more formal, check out some of these restaurants. While there’s certainly less free food, the plates are always delicious!
- Atelier Casa de Comidas (Calle Sos del Rey Católico, 1). Traditional Andalusian flavours meet cutting-edge modern techniques. Reservation recommended.
- La Fábula (Calle San Antón, 28). Beautiful space with innovative takes on local classics.
- María de la O (Carretera de la Sierra, 13). Inventive share plates in a relaxed yet formal dining space.
Currently, there are no Michelin-starred restaurants in Granada. However, these three all make it into the Michelin Guide’s recommendations for anyone seeking top-notch fine dining in Granada!
Drinking in Granada: Your Guide to Wine, Beer, and More!
You’ll definitely get your share of good beer and wine in Granada. If you’re aiming to get your money’s worth on free tapas, you’ll be ordering plenty of vino and cañas (the local serving size of beer, about 300mL)!
But if you’re looking to take things to the next level, I’ve got you covered. One of my favourite wine bars in Spain is in Granada, and I have more than a few favourite spots for my afternoon vermut.
So grab a glass and let’s dive in!
My Favourite Wine Bars in Granada
While Spain drinks four times as much beer as wine, don’t get tricked into thinking that there’s no wine worth seeking out.
Spanish wine is as delicious as it is good value for money, and Andalusia is home to some of the most exciting new developments in the country’s winemaking.
At these two wine bars, you can sample classics like Rioja, Ribera, and Sherry wines, alongside modern offerings from brand new local wineries. They also have delicious food, so you can stay all night!
- Taberna La Tana (Placeta del Agua, 3). My favourite wine bar in Granada! You’ll find one of the most extensive by-the-glass wine lists in Spain, to have a taste of otherwise un-affordable wines!
- Taberna Malvasía (Calle Virgen del Rosario, 10). Just around the corner from La Tana, with a great wine list and super knowledgeable staff.
Where to Drink Craft Beer in Granada
The craft beer movement was slow to come to southern Spain. But in a nation of beer lovers, once it arrived it was here to stay! Try a range of local and national craft beers at some of these hopping spots in Granada.
- El Fermentador (Calle San Juan de Letran, 17).
- Colagallo Craft Beers & Cocktails (Calle Molinos, 28). If you’re travelling with someone who hates beer, this is your place! The cocktail list is almost as good as their beers.
- Bella Kurva (Calle de San Jerónimo, 19). Great local beer, and a nifty array of “international tapas”.
Great Vermouth Bars in Granada
Vermut is the secret Spanish aperitif you’ll definitely want to try in Granada. La hora del vermut (basically; ‘vermouth o’clock’) is a magical time of day, where locals gather just before dinner to whet their appetites with a glass of this sweet, fruity, slightly bitter drink alongside a plate of olives.
It’s a custom that I’ve embraced whole-heartedly! (You can even see my homemade vermouth recipe).
Celebrate your own vermouth o’clock at these classic local watering holes:
- La Picatería (Plaza de San Agustín). Inside the fantastic San Agustín food market, the vermouth here is a local favourite. Pair it with one of their delicious olive skewers!
- Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Almireceros, 1). One of my favourite tapas bars also has great vermouth, poured straight from the barrel!
The Hidden Gem: Piononos in Granada
Most people miss this classic foodie offering from Granada. Don’t be like them! Piononos are a delicious local pastry, and a great snack to have at any time of day.
The traditional pionono recipe comes from Santa Fe, a small town just outside of Granada. A local baker named Ceferino Isla created the pastry in honour of Pope Pius IX (‘Pio Nono’ in Italian).
But it’s not just the name, the shape too is said to be reminiscent of the Pope: short and a bit tubby! To make it, bakers roll a thin layer of spongecake into a small cylinder and soak it with different kinds of fruity or rum syrups. Top it with custard cream and you have one delicious bite!
Try them at:
- Pasteleria Lopez-Mezquita (Calle Reyes Católicos, 39).
Read More
Thanks for reading my guide to where to eat in Granada! Are you heading to more places in Spain? Check out my other foodie guides and posts all about eating in Andalusia: