How to Make “Salmorejo” (like gazpacho but better)

Visit Andalucía in summer and you’re sure to fall in love with one dish: salmorejo. It’s not just that it’s delicious (which it definitely is), it’s also the perfect antidote for the sweltering heat of southern Spain! Much like it’s skinnier brother, gazpacho, salmorejo is a cold soup starring tomato. But whereas gazpacho is more frequently served in a glass (to be drunk like a vegetable juice), you’ll find that salmorejo is much creamier, to be eaten as a soup or used as a sauce for seafood and meat.

It’s Cordoba that claims credit for the invention of salmorejo. With the introduction of tomatoes to Andalucía in the 16th century, they were quickly added to a whole range of dishes, and remain a staple of Spain’s diet today. The roots of this soup, however, go back even further! Under Moorish rule and the kingdom of Al-Andalus, cold soups were as popular as they are today, with the most common resembling the modern ajoblanco (with almonds, garlic, and olive oil) or almori (with flour, salt, and vinegar). So, when tomatoes first started appearing from the New World, these older recipes got pimped up!

Today you’ll find that every bar in Seville has their own version of salmorejo, with most chefs prizing their grandmother’s recipe above all others! As with most things though, the best are usually the simplest. The most basic soups only use tomatoes, garlic, breadcrumbs, and olive oil (with a touch of sherry vinegar for that local tang!). Just don’t forget the classic Spanish garnish of Iberian ham (ham is to Spain as parsley is to France).

The thing is, I don’t have a Spanish granny. So when the time came to make my own salmorejo, I didn’t feel too guilty about adding in some extra ingredients. In addition to some spices, I find that adding charred cucumber gives a refreshing quality as well as a subtle smokiness. But for a more traditional version, feel free to leave it out!

Homemade salmorejo with charred cucumber

Serves 4

Prep time: 20mins | Cooking time: 5mins

Ingredients:

• 4 medium-sized tomatoes (or 480g tin of peeled tomatoes)
• 1 clove of garlic
• 2 cups of stale bread, torn into chunks
• 1 cup of extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons of sherry vinegar
• 1 pinch of salt
• 2 teaspoons of smoked paprika
• 2 teaspoons of ground cumin
• 1 small cucumber, cut lengthways and drizzled with olive oil, seeds removed
• Chopped hard-boiled egg and pieces of cured ham, to garnish

Instructions:

1. Place the two halves of the cucumber cut side down on a grill over a high heat. Remove from heat when the charring has reached the desired level: the more there is, the more charred flavour will be imparted to the dish.
2. To avoid having to strain the final soup, first scald the tomatoes to remove the skin. Cut a small cross at the bottom of the tomato and place in boiling water for 30 seconds, before immediately putting in a bowl with ice water. The skins should peel off easily!
3. Put the tomatoes in a blender and quickly blitz into a juice. Add the chunks of bread and leave for two or three minutes, until the bread has soaked up some of the tomato liquid.
4. Add the garlic, salt, vinegar, spices, and cucumber, and blend to combine.
5. In addition to the bread, the creaminess of the soup is due to the emulsified olive oil. Start to slowly add the olive oil to the soup, blending to emulsify.
6. Serve chilled with toasted bread, with the egg and ham sprinkled on the salmorejo.