July 5, 2018

Vermouth in Seville: What it is and where to drink it

I only have bad childhood memories of vermouth. Almost always, these memories—pulled from the locked up part of my brain where things are sent to be forgotten—revolve around a dusty old bottle, found at the backest corner of the highest shelf in the pantry.

That vermouth was a sad thing. Tasting of bitterness and despair, it was old and forgotten, the last resort for moments of “oh Jesus, we’ve run out of booze”. But in Seville, I’ve developed a newfound appreciation for this drink. When made well and treated right, vermouth is the nectar of the gods, and a perfect way to start a meal. It’s a drink that was once all the rage throughout the courts of Europe, and is now making a comeback as the aperitif of choice for bespoke-culture millennials!

It can be bitter, sweet, fruity, spicy—as well as everything in-between. And for me, it’s something that literally everyone who visits Spain should try! So, that being the case, the two most important questions you need to ask yourself are “what exactly is vermouth, and where can I get it in Seville?”.

Want to skip the ‘what’ and head straight to the ‘where’? Click here to jump to my recommendations on where to try vermouth in Seville!

Contents

What is vermouth?

Vermouth is the best thing you can do with bad white wine (or, in fact, any white wine!). It’s a type of aperitif commonly had before dinner (or in Spain, before church), made from a white wine that’s been fortified and aromatised. By fortified, I mean that the initial wine has had some extra alcohol added to it (usually brandy), to bring it up to about 15% alcohol; and by aromatised, I mean that the wine has had some botanicals added to it in order to give it more flavour.

Back in the day, vermouth was used as a medicinal wine (a concept that sounds so, so right). Those bitter herbs that give vermouth its delicious and saliva-inducing flavours were initially added in as digestive aids and as a panacea for a whole range of other diseases too! Fortifying these wines helped them last longer, making them easy to trade throughout the world.

The name vermouth derives from the German word for wormwood, and follows a long tradition of Germanic and Hungarian cultures infusing local wines with this bitter herb. While the modern version of vermouth started out in the north of Italy only a couple of centuries ago, wormwood is still the ingredient that gives the drink its signature flavour!

Today, vermouth is most strongly associated with its classic Italian versions, specifically the Martini brand—which is the saddest thing ever! I’m not saying that this Italian stuff doesn’t have a place in cocktails, but by itself it tastes like being punched in the face by an Italian. So my advice is: stick to Spanish!

Read more: Need something to eat with your vermouth? Check out my guide to the best tapas in Seville, and the dishes you can’t afford to miss!

Spanish-style vermouth

Spain developed its own vermouths a little after the Italians created their signature iterations; starting in Catalonia. Most of the most iconic Spanish brands still come from the small towns that first started this trend, with names like Miró and Yzaguirre. Although they vary by region (Andalusian vermouths tend to be a little less bitter), Spanish vermouth is typically a sweet and amber-coloured drink (courtesy of caramel being added to the base liquid) with strong flavours of cinnamon, cloves, citrus, and vanilla.

In Seville, this vermút rojo is generally served on a large cube of ice, along with a sliver of lemon or orange and perhaps an olive. You can have it either by itself, or with a squirt of sifón; local club soda. While in Madrid it’s common for bars to have vermouth on tap, in Seville it’s only ever from the bottle. Because of its sweet, aromatic character, it pairs perfectly with anything salty and cured: try it with garlicky green olives, Spanish jamón ibérico, cheese, or chorizo for a flavour explosion!

Where to drink vermouth in Seville

So, after all that, you should be about ready to start gulping down vermouth! But where are the best bars to try it in Seville?

#1. La Vermutería (Palabra de Bar)

Practical information:

Address: Calle Sol, 3
Opening hours: 7.30pm-12am Wednesday & Thursday, 12pm-12am Friday to Sunday.
What to order: My personal favourite vermút here is the “Atxa Rojo”, a Basque vermouth served in both white and red versions, with a seductive and palate-awakening bitterness! The house vermouth (on tap) is from Seville, and is a great example of the local style.

This one makes a lot of sense. Translating as “The Vermouthery”, La Vermutería lives up to its name, and then some! Up to 25 different versions of vermouth from all over Spain are served by the glass in this hole-in-wall bar, making for a great place to conduct vermouth ‘research’. It’s a great place for a pre-dinner drink or a light meal, and the gildas (skewers of olives, pickled peppers, and anchovies) are just about the best accompaniment possible for a glass of vermút.

The husband and wife duo who own and run the bar are incredibly knowledgeable about their favourite aperitif, and were also nicer than they should have been about my first attempt at homemade vermouth!

#2. El Rinconcillo

Practical information:

Address: Calle Gerona, 40
Opening hours: 1pm-1.30am, Monday to Sunday.
What to order: By the glass vermouth with a tapa of cured sheep’s cheese.

Seville’s oldest bar is also a great spot to try one of its oldest aperitifs! Despite predating the invention of Spanish vermouth (the bar opened in 1670), El Rinconcillo is a great spot to try out one of the first ever brands of vermút on the market: Yzaguirre. Drink it standing up at the bar with a side of cheese or ham and feel transported back in time!

#3. Bar El Comercio

Practical information:

Address: Calle Lineros, 9
Opening hours: 7.30am-9pm, Monday to Saturday.
What to order: Homemade red vermouth served over ice.

Looking to try homemade vermouth in Seville? If so, El Comercio is for you. Their take on vermút rojo is sweet, delicious, and quintessentially Andalusian. Head there for breakfast to try the best churros in Seville, and come back later for an aperitivo of vermouth and sliced-to-order jamón ibérico.

#4. Bar Santa Ana

Practical information:

Address: Calle Pureza, 82
Opening hours: 9am-12am, Monday to Sunday.
What to order: Homemade red vermouth and a bowl of crispy chicharrones de Triana.

If you find yourself searching for spots to grab an aperitif over the river in Triana, look no further! Bar Santa Ana also stocks a homemade red vermouth. It’s bursting with flavours of vanilla and cinnamon, making it the perfect match to the crispy-fried and incredibly addictive chicharrones de Triana (spiced pork rinds) available at any time throughout the day.

#5. Maestro Marcelino

Practical information:

Address: Calle Hernando Colón, 9
Opening hours: 9am-12am, Monday to Friday; 10am-12am, Saturday & Sunday.
What to order: Vermút clásico, poured straight from the barrel!

Found on a side street near Seville’s Cathedral, Maestro Marcelino is half deli, half bar. Selling a range of local produce to take-away or have in-house, they also serve two vermouths under their own brand, poured straight from the barrel. Both red, the vermút clásico is slightly more bitter and fruity, while the dulce is on the sweeter side!