April 23, 2020

Rioja Wine: Your Guide To Spain’s Most Iconic Wine

You can’t talk about Spanish wine without mentioning Rioja.

In fact, in many ways, Rioja is Spanish wine. It accounts for a whopping 60% of the wine sold in bars and restaurants across Spain. (And that figure jumps to 80% if we’re talking about aged red wines). That’s huge.

Just imagine it. That means when Spaniards hit up their favourite tapas bar on a Friday night, you can bet that most of the time they’re ordering a Rioja wine. (Except in the south, where they’re drinking Cruzcampo beer 100% of the time).

rioja wine bottles — *Did you know Rioja is 60% of the wine sold in Spanish tapas bars?*

But what is Rioja wine?

That’s a question I get asked a lot on my wine tours in Seville. Is it a grape? Is it a place? Or is it a special way of making wine?

The answer? “Kinda all of them!”

Rioja can be a hard thing to get to grips with. But I promise you it’s worth it. This is Spain’s most important wine, and one of its most delicious! I’ve just finished my Rioja Wine Diploma, and I’m excited to share my new knowledge with you.

So, let’s dive in! (Note: this article is best enjoyed with a glass of Rioja wine in your hand. But so are most things).

The Quick Sip on Rioja Wine

So what’s the quick sip on this classic wine?

First of all, Rioja is a place, not a grape. Like most European countries, Spain names its wine by where it comes from, not the grape that goes into it. Often, you won’t even see the grape on the label!

There are 70 official quality winemaking regions in Spain. (Here called denominaciones de origen, D.O. for short). It’s the same system as the Italian D.O.C. and French A.O.C..

Impressively, Rioja was the first of only two regions to be granted the prestigious denominación de origen calificada (D.O.Ca.), owing to a long tradition of making top-quality wine.

And when we’re talking about Rioja, we’re talking about red wine. It’s a huge 87% of the production! Even then, we’re really talking about the grape tempranillo. Although there are 14 grapes permitted in Rioja (more on this later), three-quarters of the planted vines are tempranillo. But at its best, Rioja (red and white) is a blended wine.

So what else makes Rioja wine unique?

Rioja means oak. Compared with other wines throughout the world, there are few that take to oak as well as Rioja. These wines can spend a looong time in the barrel, leading to complex and long-lived bottles.

wine barrels in rioja — *There are over 1.4 million oak barrels in Rioja!*

As a result, bottles of Rioja get a label indicating how they’ve been aged. Joven means a young and fruity wine, whereas crianza, reserva, and gran reserva equal time in oak.

Now that you’ve got your 101 on Rioja wine, are you ready to dive a little deeper?

Even if you’re an old hand at Spanish wine, you might be surprised at what you can learn. Did you know that Rioja recently started a villages system similar to Burgundy? That and more, below,

Making a Classic: The History of Rioja

Rioja is the most iconic Spanish wine. Not only is it the most popular wine in Spain, it’s also the most popular worldwide. 20% of the wine that leaves Spain is Rioja.

According to the official Rioja Council, four out of 10 wine consumers throughout the world know the Rioja brand. Even other popular Spanish wines like Priorat, Ribera del Duero, and Rueda can’t compete with that.

So how did it get here?

Romans + Monks = Wine

Rioja goes way back. There’s evidence of winemaking here in Roman times, and speculation that it might have started even earlier, with the Phoenicians. After the expulsion of the Moors, the area reclaimed its winemaking with help from local monasteries.

By 1099, the name Rioja (then known as “Rioga”) was already in use, and its wines gained protected status from the King of Navarra in 1102. But it was the Camino de Santiago (St. James’ Way) that really put Rioja on the map in the Middle Ages.

Pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain passed through Rioja, and spread word of this amazing region across Europe. The region got more and more famous, peaking in the 18th century when it adopted winemaking techniques for long-lived red wines from Bordeaux.

The Higher the Rise…

But it’s not all sunshine and siesta. Rioja won its fame, but bad times were coming. When Bordeaux was devastated by the phylloxera blight in the late 19th century, French wine merchants fled south.

vineyards in Rioja — *Rioja: Pylloxera-free until almost the 20th century*.

Their customers were thirsty for wine, and Rioja seemed like the solution. Bold, velvety reds aged in oak? Eh, close enough to Bordeaux!

These negociants and winemakers revolutionised Rioja. They ramped up production and brought the latest innovations in viticulture and barrel-ageing. They even connected the region to the rail network for the first time.

But! Phylloxera ended up in Rioja only 30 years later. The region lost two-thirds of its vines, and as Spain lost its New World colonies, demand dried up too. And despite becoming Spain’s first D.O. in 1925, the Civil War and dictatorship meant more hard times.

Recovery and Regrowth

The 1970s brought new life to Rioja. “Flying Winemakers” and consultants helped bring Rioja into the modern world, and it became known again for producing top-quality wine.

In 1991, Rioja was chosen as Spain’s first D.O.Ca. wine region; awarded for its 2,000-year history of quality and innovation. Since then, Rioja has become famous throughout the world for its rich and structured wines.

And innovation is never far away! Nine new grapes were introduced to the region in 2007. Even better, wineries have been able to make sparkling wine since 2017.

The Land of Rioja

Rioja is the perfect place to make wine. The climate here is ideal for growing grapes, and there’s a huge diversity in soil and terrain.

You’ll find Rioja in the north of Spain, ringed by the Sierra de Cantabria to the north, and Sierra de la Demanda to the south. It covers land in the areas of Navarre, the Basque Country, and La Rioja. Together they provide almost 66,000 hectares of vineyards!

The Ebro river crosses the land from west to east, with its seven tributaries watering the vines. These tributaries are so important that the area is even named after one of them (the Rio Oja)!

There are three sub-regions you should also know about. Rioja Alta is in the west, on higher elevation. Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja) is in the east, on the low plains. Lastly, Rioja Alavesa is in the northwest and is the smallest of the three areas.

map of rioja wine region — *A map of the Rioja wine region, its three sub-zones, and its seven valleys. Source: Wine Paths.*

Want a tip? Here’s my mnemonic for remembering Rioja’s 7 valleys.

“Oscar Nibbles Irregular Little Juicy Cider Apples”.

In other words: Oja, Najerilla, Iregua, Leza, Jubera, Cidacos, and Alhama.

The Climate

Rioja has a moderate climate marked by a confluence of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences. The mountains to the north protect the region from cold, northerly winds, while the sierra to the south stops the extreme continental climate of central Spain.

The River Ebro, too, helps to keep the temperature in check, and channels winds from the south-east.

Lower elevations (300-400 metres) and warm southeasterly winds mean that Rioja Oriental tends to be more Mediterranean, while Alavesa and Alta veer to the more Atlantic side of things.

Summers tend to be hot, and winters cold. Rainfall is relatively high; anywhere between 400-600mm a year, depending on the zone.

Diurnal temperature swings are the most marked in the Alta and Alavesa zones, with their higher altitudes (400-700 metres).

The Soils

To say that Rioja has a diverse range of soils would be an understatement. Almost every village has its own geology!

But broadly speaking, we can draw three main soil types:

clay-limestone: mostly in Alavesa, with pockets in Alta.
ferrous-clay: Alta and Oriental.
alluvial: all sub-zones, around the Ebro and its tributaries.

rioja soil map — *A guide to the three main soil types in Rioja.*

Along with the three zones’ climates, these three soils give different characteristics to the grapes of the region.

The Grapes of Rioja

If Rioja is the iconic wine of Spain, then tempranillo is its iconic grape.

This one grape makes up 75% of all the plantings in the region! But Rioja really comes into its own with blends. Most of the classic bottles contain at least two grapes, out of a list of 14 permitted varietals.

Let’s break them all down.

Red Grapes of Rioja

Red wine grapes represent 90% of plantings in Rioja, and 87% of sales. It goes without saying that for most people (and most Spaniards) Rioja is red wine.

Including the major grape tempranillo, there are five red grapes permitted in Rioja.

Tempranillo

This is the powerhouse of local wine. It reflects all of the diverse soils and microclimates of the region, and gives finesse and power to the wine. And that comes as no surprise, since tempranillo is, in fact, native to Rioja!

The name comes from the Spanish word ‘temprano’, meaning early. This is because the grape ripens much earlier than most of its Mediterranean brothers and sisters!

tempranillo grapes on the vine — *Tempranillo grapes on the vine in Rioja. Source: Virgin Wines.*

In the warmer climes of Rioja Oriental, it can produce easy-drinking and supple wines. But at its best, tempranillo grown on clay-limestone soils can lead to wines that are potent, structured, and remarkably long-lived.

In general, tempranillo wines are full of plums, ripe strawberries, and a woody flavour known as “cigar box”. It also has a natural affinity for oak, which is a massive bonus to those wines undergoing prolonged ageing in the barrel.

Tempranillo pops up all across Spain. There are almost more local names for this grape than there are words in the Spanish language! Look out for Tinto Fino, Tinta del Pais, Ull de Llebre, and Cencibel, to mention a few.

Garnacha Tinta

You might know this grape as grenache. The French name is more widely recognised, but the grape actually comes from Spain! Garnacha tinta is native to the area of Aragon and Navarre, near Rioja.

Grenache is only 8% of vines. But in Rioja Oriental, if tempranillo is king, grenache is queen! The warmer temperatures here help the grape to fully ripen. While you can find varietal grenache, it’s best suited for blends.

When added to tempranillo, it gives a much needed juiciness! You’ll get more alcohol, a softer texture, some extra fruitiness.

Graciano

I first tasted this grape as “tintilla de Rota”, from a winery in the south of Spain. It had survived Phylloxera thanks to the sandy soils of coastal Cadiz!

But graciano probably has its roots in Rioja. It might only be 2% of vineyards, but graciano is integral to the longevity of the best gran reserva wines. It grows best on the clay-limestone slopes of Rioja Alta and Alavesa.

In blends, it provides a deep colour, high tannins, and a marked acidity. In short, graciano gives elegance! You might also pick up some crushed cherry and mint aromas.

Fun fact! You can taste graciano as “Bovale Sardo” in Sardinia and “Morrastel” in Languedoc.

Mazuelo

Mazuelo (a.k.a. Carignan) is another Aragon grape with French aspirations. Like graciano, it’s just 2% of vineyards, but another crucial component in top-notch wine.

Both of them are also late-budding and late-ripening, helping them to avoid spring frosts. Mazuelo likes the well-drained soils of Rioja, soaking up the reflected sun off the stones. To blends, it gives colour, acidity, and tannin, as well as spiced flavours.

Maturana Tinta

Another native grape, Maturana Tinta was rescued from the brink of extinction in 2007. But there still isn’t much around, making up only 0.3% of plantings in 2017.

Like tempranillo, it buds late and ripens early for a short growth cycle. While you can find great solo versions, the grape is also used to blend. It gives intense colour and tannin, as well some herbaceousness.

White Grapes of Rioja

While white grapes only reflect 10% of plantings, white Rioja is enjoying more and more popularity. And that’s surely set to rise, with the introduction of sparkling winemaking to the area!

Traditionally, only three varieties were permitted in Rioja: viura, malvasía de Rioja, and grenache blanc. But in 2007, the Rioja Council introduced six new grapes, for a total of nine permitted varieties.

Viura

Viura is a Catalan grape better known as Macabeo. To say that it’s the most popular white grape in Rioja would be an understatement: it makes up 70% of white grapes planted in the region!

It’s a vigorous grape, and needs poor soils to concentrate its flavour. The wine is often fermented in oak barrels and ages on lees to enhance its texture and flavour. You’ll get aromas of green apple, blossom, and almonds.

With racy high acidity, these wines can be very long-lived.

Malvasía de Rioja

Don’t let the name fool you.

This isn’t a true member of the Malvasía family, but another native grape of Rioja. It’s another grape that prefers the poor alluvial soils of the Ebro, but only makes up 2% of white grapes.

While it doesn’t have much primary aroma, it does have a great capacity to express aged and oaky flavours. When combined with viura, it gives a creamy texture and plenty of oak and lees character.

Garnacha Blanca

A random mutation of garnacha tinta, this grape is better known as grenache blanc. It represents 3% of planted white grapes.

This grenache is another vigorous, late-budding grape that needs poor soils. Blended with viura, it contributes juiciness and powerful fruit aroma.

Tempranillo Blanco

In 1988, a farmer in Rioja found a single vine of white grapes in a field of tempranillo. He was certain it must be a freak mutant, and sent it off to the Rioja Council for tests.

That mutation is tempranillo blanco, approved for use in 2007! Despite being so new, it’s a grape on the rise. At the moment, it makes up about 13% of the planted white grapes.

Just like regular tempranillo, this grape has a short growth cycle. It buds late and ripens early, producing wines with racy acidity. There is an intensity to this grape’s fruit and flower aroma. Think green banana, citrus, and tropical fruit alongside white flowers.

You can try it by itself or in field blends. And definitely try it! Grown nowhere else in the world, tempranillo blanco is a unique part of the Rioja landscape.

Maturana Blanca

Despite being permitted in 2007, maturana blanca is the oldest recorded grape in Rioja. Documents first record its presence in 1622!

These are wines with high acidity and high alcohol, in blends and by itself. You’ll taste apples, bananas, citrus, and some bitter phenolics. It’s a pity that such an interesting local grape only makes up 0.6% of white plantings!

Albillo Mayor

Albillo mayor is another classic Riojan grape, thought to be the parent of tempranillo. It has a screaming acidity and low alcohol, best suited for blends with other white grapes.

Maybe for that reason, it’s only 0.1% of the white grapes of the region. Expect wines with this grape to have vegetative aromas alongside citrus and apple.

Chardonnay

This one needs no introduction. A recent addition to Rioja, Chardonnay makes up 2.5% of white plantings. It’s elegance and natural affinity with oak makes it a prime candidate for premium white Rioja.

Sauvignon Blanc

Along with Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc is a French variety planted here since 2007. It is a natural partner to viura, and now makes up 3.3% of white vineyards.

Verdejo

Verdejo is well known to anyone visiting a tapas bar in Spain. For most old-school taverns, it’s the only white wine present!

It comes from the region of Rueda, south-west of Rioja, and arrived in the region only in 2007. Just like its spiritual sibling, sauvignon blanc, verdejo is a great blending partner for viura.

Always on the rise, verdejo is 5.4% of white plantings.

The Wines of Rioja

Now for the tasty stuff!

Rioja is Spain’s largest producer of wine (around 25% of the country’s total product). There are 600 wineries here, two-thirds of which are designated as criadores (“ageing wineries”).

Together, these wineries stock more than 1.4 million oak barrels! It’s no surprise then that Rioja has a greater ageing capacity than any other wine region in the world.

american oak barrels in Rioja — *American oak barrels ageing in Rioja. Source: Foods and Wines from Spain.*

Roughly 87% of sales are red wines, with white wines and rosados at 8% and 5%, respectively. Of those reds, 63% are barrel-aged!

Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes are destemmed. Most whites don’t go through malolactic conversion, though more and more are oak-aged. For rosé wines, both direct press and bleed-off wines (vinos de sangrado) are made. (Usually with garnacha tinta).

Keep an eye out for a special rosé called Clarete. Typical from the Najerilla valley, these wines have a distinct “onion skin” colour and are made of a blend of grenache and viura.

Oak Maturation

Ageing in oak is one of the defining features of red Rioja wine. It became a typical practice in the 19th century, as Bordeaux winemaking techniques came to Rioja with the now famous Marques de Riscal and Marques de Murrieta.

These long periods spent in oak give new flavours and textures to the wine, and soften some of the harsher grape tannins. American oak is the most common, but French oak is increasingly used for more modern styles.

Classification According to Age

Given the importance of oak for the wine, all bottles of Rioja are classified according to how long they’ve been aged. There are four categories:

Joven,
Crianza,
Reserva,
Gran Reserva.

rioja wine labels — *The four ageing classifications of Rioja wine.*

Joven

Joven or “young” wines have spent no time ageing. They are marked with a green label and usually have fresh and fruity flavours. 37% of red wine falls into this category, as well as most white and rosado.

Young whites pair best with shellfish, while young reds go best with simple charcuterie and zippy salads.

Crianza

This is the most popular style of Rioja wine in the country! Almost every tapas bar in the country stocks a crianza, and it makes up 42% of red wine sales.

They are at least two years old, spending at least one of those in an oak barrel for reds, and 6 months in the case of whites and rosé. They have a delicate balance of fruit and oak flavour, and pair with a range of Spanish dishes.

Try the reds with blue fish such as tuna or salmon, as well as wild mushrooms and Iberian ham! Aged whites are the perfect partners to nutty cheeses and white meat.

Reserva

Most Riojanos will claim that reserva wines are the most emblematic of the region and its traditions. These red wines are at least three years old (two for whites and rosé) spending at least one of those in oak (6 months for whites an rosé).

Expect these wines to have less intense fruit aromas, but ramped up aged flavours of spice and earth. The reds are the perfect pairing for red meat and game, while the whites go well with hard cheese and simple mushrooms.

Gran Reserva

These wines are only made from exceptional vintages, and as such are the rarest of Rioja wines. Last year, they were just 3% of total sales (but a much bigger part of total profit!).

Reds are at least five years old, spending at least two of those in oak and two in a bottle. Whites and rosé are at least four years old, spending at least 6 months in oak.

Classification According to Origin

In 2017, the Rioja Council developed a new system for classifying the region’s wine. While the ageing classifications were a great help to consumers, they wanted to have a separate system to showcase the different terroirs of Rioja.

With this in mind, they came up with the labels of Viñedo Singular, Vino de Municipio, and Vino de Zona.

Viñedo Singular

This label indicates wines made from specific individual vineyards and estates. They represent the true terroir of soil and microclimate in Rioja.

The vineyards must be at least 35 years old, and the wine must be produced, aged, bottled, and marketed by the same winery. For the vineyard, yields are restricted to 5,000 kg/ha for reds and 6,922 kg/ha for whites. (20% smaller than normal Rioja yield maximums). Harvest must be done manually.

rioja vinedo singular — *An example of the Vinedo Singular label on Rioja wine.*

Vino de Municipio

Similar to the Burgundian village appellation, this label indicates a wine made from grapes grown and vinified within a single municipality in Rioja. (There are 144 such municipalities!).

While the village has been allowed on the label since 1999, the new changes make it much more obvious and make it as large as the normal Rioja designation.

Vino de Zona

This one is obvious, right?

The least restrictive of the three new categories, a vino de zona is a wine produced entirely within one of Rioja’s three subzones: Alta, Alavesa, and Oriental.

Time for Bubbles!

In the newest of all developments (we’re talking 2019!), the Rioja Council now also allows the making of sparkling wine. This bubbly baby is called Vino Espumoso de Rioja.

Only whites and rosé are permitted, from any of the 14 grape varieties present in Rioja. The wines must be made in the methode traditionelle (the same used to make Champagne and Cava).

Unlike those wines, however, Rioja bubbly can only come in the dry Brut, Extra Brut, and Brut Nature styles. For sparkling rosé, at least 25% of the wine must be from red grapes.

These wines are also manually harvested, and aged for almost as long as red wines! Standard sparkling Rioja must spend 15 months ageing on lees, while reserva and gran añada wines age for 24 and 36 months, respectively.