Best Tapas Bars and Restaurants in Triana: Your Guide to Seville’s Most Local Barrio in 2020

Here’s a question I get asked a lot on my tapas tours in Seville: “where do the locals go to eat?”. The answer? They go to Triana.

Across the river from most of Seville, this is the most unique barrio in town. In fact, just cross the bridge and you’ll feel like you’re in a completely different city!

In fact, for a long time, it was a different city. Triana used to be a small town across the water from regular Seville, and today the locals won’t let you forget it!

No soy sevillano, they’ll say. Soy trianero. (That is, “I’m not from Seville, I’m from Triana“).

Although that sounds strange, it’s also what gives Triana its charm. It really still is like a small town! People visit their local tapas bar or downstairs restaurant, know everyone’s name, and go to the same family-run deli to buy their groceries.

The food scene here is crazy good. You’ll eat at old-school restaurants crowded with locals, serving traditional dishes with none of the “fancy” modernisation of central Seville.

If you’re looking to step back in time to rustic tapas bars, bullfighting, and flamenco, then Triana is for you.

Where to Eat in Triana

Until the 1850s, Triana wasn’t even connected to mainland Seville. It was a place for outcasts and the poor, including the Roma people of Andalusia. It’s from that group that we get flamenco; making Triana the ancestral home of Spain’s most famous music and dance!

And while today Triana is part of Seville, it still feels different. Part of that old culture remains, and you’ll notice it on the streets and in restaurants. So, where should you go to eat in Triana?

The Triana Food Market

The Mercado de Triana is arguably the most famous food market in Seville.

On the ruins of the Spanish Inquisition’s former headquarters, this food market is beautiful, as well as delicious. There are stalls with fresh fruit and veg, plenty of seafood, ham, and cheese, as well as a few bars to grab lunch at after you’ve done your shopping.

• Triana Market (Calle San Jorge, 6. Closed Sundays).

Tapas Bars and Restaurants in Triana

Triana has its fair share of tapas bars and restaurants. In fact, it might even have more eateries per person than the rest of Seville! (And that is really saying something. There are more than 3,000 tapas bars in Seville).

They range from old-school bars that have never seen a vacuum or wireless internet to a handful of places doing creative twists on classic dishes.

While most follow tapas bar rules (come in, grab a spot at the bar and try and catch the waiter’s attention), some do offer table service. I’ll leave notes describing what kind of vibe you can expect.

My picks for the best restaurants in Triana:

• Las Golondrinas (Calle Antillano Campos, 26). Very popular traditional bar run by the original owner’s grandson. Not much space, so confidently elbow yourself a wedge of space at the bar. There are a few tables upstairs, but you’ll have to order raciones (larger share plates).
• Las Golondrinas II (Calle Pages del Corro, 76). Slightly newer outpost of the original, opened by the 2nd generation of the family. Same menu, and maybe a few more square metres of space.
• Puratasca (Calle Numancia, 5). Ignore the 70s decor, book a table, or arrive early. Table service and delicious, traditional Triana fare at great prices. Nice wine list too.
• Bar Santa Ana (Calle Pureza, 82). Old-school tapas bar across the road from Triana’s oldest church. It’s a popular hang-out for churchgoers and the Hermandad; the brotherhood who do the literal heavy-lifting during Easter parades. Simple tapas (more light snacks than full meal) at the bar inside, and table service on the patio.
• La Comidilla (Calle Callao, 1). Small but delicious restaurant, more formal (i.e. less chaotic) than your typical tapas bar.
• Típico barra de tapas (Calle Pagés del Corro, 86). Although it’s part of a corporation of tapas bars that I try to avoid, I have to admit this one is tasty. Maybe they know they have to have do better in Triana? Self-service at the bar, creative twists on classics, and always busy. No reservations, just turn up and hope.
• Taberna Paco España (Calle Alfarería, 18). Old-school, but a bit quieter than similar Triana tapas bars. A few tables, lots of bar space, and the best ensaladilla in town.
• Casa Cuesta (Calle Castilla, 1). Tourist-friendly, but not in a totally bad way. Good food (the croquetas are great), but avoid the obvious traps on the menu. (Paella, sangría… you catch my drift).

Fancy A Drink?

If you’re looking for a place to grab a good glass of wine, a nice beer, or a cocktail, Triana has you covered. Here are my tips:

• Clochard (Calle Antillanos Campos, 15). Brilliant wine bar just off Triana’s main drag. Great selection of Andalusian wines alongside the classic Rioja and Ribera del Duero options.
• La Antigua Abaceria (Calle Pureza, 12). This rustic family-run deli is a great spot to come for a light meal or pre-dinner snack. Carlos, the owner, has a great selection of cured meats, cheeses, and a fantastic wine list (try at least one type of sherry wine).
• Bar Juan Carlos (Calle Febo, 6). Famous for beer and cheese. There are more than 100 types of cheese for sale here, as well as a nice selection of local craft beers. It’s well worth the indigestion.
• Gintonería (inside the Triana market). Great gin bar inside the food market, just make sure you like gin.

Read More

Thanks for reading my guide to the best tapas bars and restaurants in Triana!

Sticking around for a few days? Don’t miss my guide to where to eat in Seville. It’s full of my personal picks for everything from breakfast to midnight snacks (and everything in between).

And if you’re travelling around Spain, check out my foodie guides for cities and towns around the country.